Square 3820.1113

Ok, so I got back to the place I was earlier today and just posted this on a few EV lists trying to get some help as tonight, after I cleaned up my major mistake (I'm still reeling from that, so scary), I tried to troubleshoot again and found myself still unsure why things aren't working properly. So, here's another place I'm posting in case anyone has answers who might possibly stumble onto this posting.

So I literally only have to solve this problem and then I'll have my '73 squareback roadside instead of on jackstands. So, I am pleading for help here as I am totally stumped. I'll try to best explain this problem.

Essentially, I am able to run the motor when I connect a cable from the KSI terminal directly to the secondary contactor (battery side), skipping over both the 12V/30A relay and the KLK fuse (I'm following the EVA wiring diagram). I tried a new relay and new KLK fuse to eliminate those issues, as well as tested the ohm readings on the potbox and adjusted it (1-3 ohms disengaged and maxs out around 4800, and reads under 100 before it 'clicks on'). I've even tried to adjust the microswitch on the potbox, but I'm not sure I did it right and also it didn't seem to have any effects. Unfortunately, the motor doesn't engage when I have it wired up from KSI to relay (30), relay (87) to KLK fuse, KLK fuse to secondary contactor. I even tried connecting up the two input wires together (that usually go to 'Com' and 'No' on the potbox) to close the secondary contactor w/ the ignition switch instead of the pedal and that didn't effect performance.

In case it helps, here are a few general points. I have a 1221c Curtis controller on a 96V system w/ two Curtis SW220 contactors. I have test the 8" DC motor w/ a 12V battery and it spins the wheels. I have tested the voltage on the battery side of both contactors and register 96.8V as well as from B+ to B- on the controller when the potbox lever is engaged. I register 90% of this from the KSI (positive probe) and the negative side of the first battery (negative probe).

If I need to include more information for troubleshooting, I'll be happy to add it.

I need to find out more about microswitch adjustment on the potbox, but the Curtis manual unfortunately is not much help there.

My new prediction is that I'll either: sell this car, set it on fire, or watch it rust to nothingness while I continue to try to fix it. I've committed the ultimate newbie fallacy on this blog: predicted success rates and completion times when I don't even know what success and completion look like. I should have learned by now that it will be done when it is done, and I won't know when or how until well after that point looking backwards.