Living in the past

Technology has a shelf-life and this car has long since been at home. The speed, responsiveness, bulk, and bloat that today's cars tend to have make me feel as if I shouldn't be driving this thing around. All around me people are cruising at speeds while multitasking and consuming unimagined power for unimagined devices when this was a new car. So, I often think that the reason I tend to get uptight about slowing people down when going uphill is that this machine lives in a world where the rules and norms are fundamentally different. Which gives me pause b/c I can now better appreciate David Lynch's film "A Straight Story".

Reduced Power

The cold that is settling in here in KC seems to be effecting my range and power. I read about this, but thought it would be a bit later into the cold season that I'd notice a change. I usually find I am at about 50% depth of discharge after my daily commute, but as of now it looks like I'm closer to 70 or 80% discharge (and the suggestion is not to go above 80% DOD much at all). Well, may be time for battery heater wraps or another battery or two. Then again, I could take the bus 1 1/4 hours w/ a transfer and a 15 minute walk for a 9-mile commute...

So, this weekend I'm going to do some additional research to see if I may be having issues with the pack. So far my individual readings show a strong degree of equalization across the pack over time. So, not sure here....suggestions?

Turnaround

This weekend we had a block sale where many of us tried to sell our stuff (in some cases successfully). I had my car set out w/ a 'For Sale: Electric VW' sign on it. It generated a lot of questions and two people who took down my number. One of them was uber-excited thinking her son would for sure be interested.

But, I think I am done w/ having it on the market. I think I'm going to keep it. Lots of reasons I won't go into here, but let's just say it is reliable and my concerns about the winter are dwindling. I can always bum a ride or something on those absolutely undrivable days (rare I'm told in this city).

I didn't get around to the bike conversion yet, but there is yet another mode of transport I'm going to be considering that was one of my pre-EV conversion options towards the top of the list: a Vespa or some other low budget 125-150cc scooter. Maybe I should trade off the car and scooter for commuting and get even more life out of the Squareback.

For those of you who don't personally know me, I'm told this is a habit of mine (infinitely exploring options and seeking more ways to make life more complicated). To me it seems a bit complicated to consider many transport options (b/c you increase your overall maintenance needs and 'kipple' factor - see PKD for clarification), but on most days it seems to me that this is the best approach: take the long view, decentralize your technological commitments, and consider what is essential for that task. I rarely _need_ a motor-powered 4 wheel enclosed shell but do want to avoid being totally sweaty when I show up to teach.

Possible buyer?

This weekend someone is actually coming to look at the car for purchase (in this economy???). I am getting cold feet b/c now I'm growing a bit attached to the car and the ease of use/maintenance. Now that the weather is turning cold here, a few mornings I've had some fog/haziness on the windshield and w/ no heat source, it may be time to install something to be able to see well while I'm driving. I'm going to do some investigation on the toaster coil idea under the dash fan. For $10, I could have enough heat instantly generated for quick defrosting. Plus, I need to re-install insulation around the batteries to keep them from getting too cold overnight. I hear they generate enough of their own heat soon into driving, but coldness reduces initial performance power.


On another note (non-EV project idea), I am toying with the idea of converting my standard mountain bike (21-speed) to a single speed (w/ ultimate goal of purchasing a fixed-gear hub). This minimalist ride appeals to my aesthetic sense and low-maintenance approach. While the hills might make this a challenge, I hear it is a great workout (which I need). Notice the lack of wires, jangling components, etc...We'll see if this pans out, but I am realizing that I should stick by my initial thoughts that my 'commuter car' is just that - for my essential transportation needs. I want to mix things up and this new conversion is a way to insure I am not too reliant on non-human powered transport.

Drivingabout

Not much to report these days but that I put this up for sale on craigslist and EV trading post. Not exactly sure why. Part of me wonders how the winters will be here (ice and all), how long the batteries will last, etc. Mostly uncertainty but it is actually a good thing to have little to report.

It gets me to/from work just fine. The lead-acid batteries are easy to maintain, just a little watering every two weeks or so (takes about 10 minutes for 8 batteries). I plug in right away when I get home but don't start the charge until 11pm. I wired up the outside outlet I plug into to a switch in our kitchen. This way, right when I wake up (around 630am), I can just turn off the switch and the charging stops. It is handy and I bet this winter I'll be glad for it.

One note of caution: I do this partly b/c I haven't installed the vent fans for the battery box yet in the rear (I have no box around the front batteries and have noticed no effects). I figure (uh-oh) that it takes me about 1/2 hr to get to the car and that any leftover hydrogen will have dissipated. This may be a _stupid_ move on my part, but I'm seeing people all over saying that they aren't too chronic about the venting (though they are careful not to overseal the batterypack and are sure to leave the doors open a minute or so before the start driving). So, maybe my approach isn't a good one, but I have yet to figure out how to route the hydrogen/air out of the rear of the vehicle...Suggestions?

I have not gotten pics of the dash yet posted here (as I'm between cell plans so w/o a easily accessible camera), but the ammeter and voltmeters, as they are analog, are running fine. Next time I will get a digital voltmeter. The analog ammeter suits my needs fine as it is something I refer to in hill-climbing and starting from a stop (I try to avoid pegging it to 400amps but keep it around 300-350 while under a harder-than-usual load). The voltmeter though is barely useful as the analog type doesn't get the specificity I need for trouble shooting. When I use my multi-meter (that reads to the hundreth decimal place), I notice the voltmeter is around 2v off.

Otherwise, I finished the underside cover so the motor and controller are rainproof. A huge relief.

Controller heat maintained

I found the simplest solution to ensure that the sun does not overly warm up my controller. I covered the controller with aluminum foil and secured it to the controller with aluminum tape (the more expensive kind, not the 'duct' kind). It is working really well at reducing the heat of the controller and I think it is keeping the controller from getting hot due to direct sunlight. So, for the last two weeks, my runs have been unhampered by the issue I was having previously.

I have just posted this vehicle for sale too as I think that I am in the market for a vehicle that is much smaller to fit my own needs. I really dig this car, but think someone who is hauling multiple people might get more use out of it. A scooter is probably sufficient for me! So, you can find the craigslist posting here

Motor rain protection

I have been trying to figure out how to keep water from damaging or shorting my wires and motor in the rear part of the vehicle. Since I have cables running from the front to the back that are only a 1/2 ft from the wheels, I figured they need to be protected somehow. Plus, you never want water splashing into the openings on the motor.

While sheet metal and aluminum are probably the best long term solutions, again, I needed something now that would work now for my commuting. So, rain protection 1.0 is made from the plastic sheets you find at the hardware or garden stores to stand up a large plastic bag to fill w/ leaves or landscape waste. It is around 2 1/2ft x 5 ft and was perfect for totally enclosing the motor, control board, external wire runs, etc. I still need to cover one small spot (which I should do soon b/c if any well-placed water jumps up in there....arrrgh!), but w/ a few well-placed screws and some electrical ties to fasten it around the motor mount (see previous posting for design of motor mount), it is quite secure. Not to mention, this may be more longterm than short as the plastic will hopefully stand up to moisture better and contorted more easily to the funky design of the engine compartment.

Update on progress

I start teaching this Wednesday, so I am making some final adjustments and additions so that my Squareback is ready for constant use. I have been putting a good amount of miles on it in the past month and w/ all the hills here in Kansas City (never thought there would be before I moved here), the biggest issue I have to pay attention to is the temperature of the controller. I can't let it sit out in the sun and really need a second fan to cool it. But, I put a reflective sheet over it when not driving and find that is sufficient. I really notice a loss in power when I start out with it warm from sunlight. Which makes me wonder why they didn't build these as white instead of black.

I installed my ammeter in its permanent place tonight - where the analog clock used to be. After I get the voltmeter installed (where the fuel gauge is), I'll take a pic of the finished dash, along w/ a picture of my other final additions - a rain guard for the control board and motor. This has been the biggest headache as I've no idea what to use that can be installed in a non-standard environment. There are lots of curves and angles, so my attempts at using metal have just been frustrating. I'm also going to paint the wheels a metallic color due to some rust on them and I'll do some bodywork touch-up w/ VW paint.

I took out the spare, jack, and other random stuff today (around 40lbs total I think) as a way to lighten the vehicle, and I'm considering taking out a seat or even the backseat. Not sure I want to, but it might help my range. I'm also going to keep closer data now that I'll be driving more often, so I'll post that when I get some more refined numbers. Right now, it looks like I discharge about 50% when I go 16-18 miles to/from work. I average about 35 mph and run around 250amps. The amperage is relative as I coast a lot going to work and climb back uphill more often coming back.

Improved performance

Yesterday I inverted my Potbox (the little device that controls acceleration from the 'gas' pedal) and immediately noticed I was able to get more out of my EV. The cable now travels in a straight line to the Potbox and my hill climbing is much better. Even better too is that I now have an ammeter to gauge how much I'm asking from the controller and motor, so I can see which gear draws higher amps and thus can down/up shift to save on the power I'm drawing. It would be nice to know the motor rpms (so I could know when in fact I should shift to avoid redlining it) as hill climbing - like a gas vehicle- is better in a lower gear.

The lamentations I expressed a few days ago are less, though I still think an extra battery would help things out. Simply (but pricey) solution...

Homemade A/C system

Saw this at a local EV meeting (MAEAA) and while I'm not too concerned right now about sweating like crazy as I drive in this heat, when I'm teaching I don't really dig pit-sweat...Great instructables on it here

Good range so far, but controller overheating

So I had my first drive today to/from my new workplace. Thankfully the trip (w/ a small 2-mile side trip for lunch) only took me down to just below 50% DOD (that's depth of discharge). After some research the past few days, it seems the following things are good for your batteries:

1. It is best to charge around the 50% point, even though one can safely discharge down to 80%.
2. One should avoid opportunity charging (charging whenever you stop) as that will 'cycle' the batteries too often and lead to a shorter battery pack lifespan.
3. One should charge just after driving to avoid sulfation on the battery plates. Not really sure what that means other than the lead plates loosing the power to transfer energy due to build up of material (sulfur) on their surface.
4. Disconnect the pack after charging to de-energize it (this I need to read more on, but it makes some logical sense - the energy is not lost in heat or doesn't flow through the whole pack but becomes isolated and stored w/in each battery).

So, since my roundtrip commute is about 17 miles, my test today shows that if I gain some range here after a few more charges, I'll have guessed right that my pack is good for my range purposes - commuting to/from work while still being able to make small trips to the store, library, etc. Then, I'll charge in the afternoon/evening.

With performance though, it is another, and more depressing, story. I think my pack may be too small for the hills on Wornall road past 75th as my controller almost burned out on the way home. I think the main issue was that my controller was in the afternoon sun today (which it was above 90F today w/o any clouds) and so on the way home I again heard the 'going thermal' high pitched whine as I climbed a few hills. Also, I may have had a lurch happen in the vehicle at one point, but I'm not sure as I was taking my foot off the pedal everytime I heard the whine and coasting a lot when I could.

Not to mention, I'm spending too much time floored to get up hills as the pack get below 20%-30% DOD. Going to work it is ok, a bit hard up steep hills, esp if I hit any red lights and have to start up from a stop going uphill, but overall I had a fine ride going there. Coming home was a different story.

I'm going to try a light, breathable cover to go over the control board so as to avoid afternoon sun. I thought about a curtain, but...that's way overdetermined - an orange VW w/ curtains!?

I'm leaning towards getting another T1275 to make this a 108V system, so as to increase my power and decrease the amps I draw when climbing hills. Hopefully that may address stressing the controller, but I'm not sure, I'll need to look into it.

Driving only w/ gauges would help a lot. They should be here tomorrow or Friday. What I've been doing is constantly checking the pack w/ my multi-meter before/after every drive, as the voltage climbs a few hours after a drive and is much lower just after you stop driving. Also, I've been shifting a lot to insure I'm not going to burn out the motor or overstress the controller - but of course, the latter seems to be happening. 1st gear up to 15mph, 2nd up to 30mph, 3rd up to 40mph, 4th no more than 50mph. What I need to read up on is what gear to be in when climbing between 25-30mph.

The short of it is this: this car may be a bit heavy for a 96V system on a Curtis 1221C controller and an 8" Advanced DC motor. Probably I should have spent more $$ and gone w/ 120V pack, 1231C Controller, and a 9" motor. But, I didn't. So, I need to shed some weight, drive more strategically and conservatively, keep the car components cool by installing another fan on the controller, and making sure it stays out of the hot sun.

The don't ask/don't tell policy

If they don't ask, is it deceptive not to tell? From reading forums, this seems to be the approach people take: if the insurance company does not ask if you've made modifications to the vehicle or what kind of motor you are running, don't confuse them by volunteering the information that you drive a self-converted electric vehicle.

Well, not sure if this is deception, rationalization, or just the ordinary way of dealing with bureaucracies, but a major insurance company (which we were already rejected by) insured my vehicle. So, I'm now almost legit - just a little more paperwork for registration. Inspection went w/o a glick, although the mechanic wanted to know what he should put for the emissions rating...

This morning I filled a few of the batteries w/ distilled water - after a full charge last night - and got about 15 miles on a charge while only 50% discharged. My first official test at range and discharge. Thankfully my pack is well balanced (only varied between 12.85V and 12.94V between the batteries after a full charge), though I am getting a bit nervous that the hills here are going to dramatically reduce my range and that I'll need an extra battery or two as a 96V system may not be enough over the winter.

Battle over EV insurance

We are currently trying to get this car insured, so it can be registered and inspected in the State of Missouri (aka street legal), and finding that insurance companies (Geico, Progressive [ironic], Liberty Mutual [doesn't that read 'together we are free?', State Farm, et al) are downright ignorant about insuring a vehicle that does not run on gasoline. I'm not speaking of the individual sales people (most were interested and delightfully shocked that this is possible), but the institutional rules they are constrained by.

I'll spare you the boring details, but I'm finding many suggest not telling the agent the car is electric-powered (and converted by me, not a certified mechanic), which I think is a bad idea as I don't want to get into an accident (esp. if it is my fault) and find out I'm paying for everything b/c the details weren't properly agreed to.

I can only imagine I'll find something but still, the what-if of not finding insurance makes me nervous.

A huge sigh of relief

I just climbed a relatively long incline and actually hit 45mph in 3rd gear doing so. Thanks to Tom and Bob at Vee Village (on 16th and Oak in KC) for all their knowledge and helpful work, I now not only have a re-built front braking system (complete w/ new calipers and hoses), but, to top it off, a stellar motor mount. Little did I know (another recurring theme here) that the torque of the motor was only being absorbed by the transaxles and the soft rubber 'mountpoint' of the transmission (not really load bearing or made to twist). Thus, I was not only loosing acceleration power due to my locked front calipers (creating serious wheel drag), but the full torque of the motor wasn't being utilized properly. Notice too Tom's great design in putting arms for strength from the back of the motor to the adapter plate mountpoint. These will double as a place to attach a water protection shield for the motor and control board. Needless to say, I now feel this car is roadworthy...well, almost - now I need to properly register it. Thanks again Vee Village!

Newsflash: Brake work improves range

So if I would have totally worked through a brake issue I ignored 4 years ago (b/c the pedal seemed stiff enough), and then re-ignored starting again in April, my initial range would have been dramatically different. Thankfully, I jacked up the front end and found out that they are rubbing quite a bit and slowing down the driving a lot. I'm breaking down and having someone look over the front brakes, calipers, and hoses since that is clearly where the problem is (from evidence of heating up wheels, noise, and severe brake pad wearing over 15-20 miles driven). I'm quite excited, as I think that what I took to be a battery/motor range issue is actually a mechanical issue.

This seems to be a pattern here - w/ my wiring issue, my range issue, my motor issue - simple solutions that I overlook in my haste to get this running....

Driving around

I'm thankfully noticing that my range is improving and the climbing of hills out here a bit more possible. Not that I've been unable to climb some (I never thought Kansas City, MO had hills), but I did find out that the classic high-pitched sound you hear when just pressing the accelerator should not be heard past 0-3mph. I heard it and was told that is the controller 'going thermal' (meaning almost overheating). Not good, so I've got to either shed some weight or drive more conservatively. The car needs some brake work done, so that is next. And the ratchet strap that is acting as a motor mount needs to be replaced w/ something more permanent. But overall, wow, what a fun ride. You can barely see it, but I put an oval "EV" sticker on the back of the car for identification. Already I've had some hilarious encounters w/ people wondering why they don't hear the classic VW engine noise or 'what's all those wires in the back?'.

Whew, finally....

Around noon I lowered this from the jackstands and drove it off of the slab and around the block. What a relief. Humorously I thought I had no reverse gear (and needed a forward/reverse switch), but then remembered VW has the stick push/shift for reverse.

This sight is one I've been waiting for for a long time, to see it on its first charge. Now I just need to register it w/ the State of Missouri and get a motor mount (right now the motor is secured by a strong rachet strap). Quite relieved and excited, though that's a bit understated. I'll be now spending time fixing up some of the rust and other things I put off to get this thing roadside.

In short, it took me about 100 hours of actual physical labor time to get this far, though the mental labor time started somewhere in early April and is on-going. I was given this car by my closest friends, who are generous and supportive people. They didn't want to deal with the mechanical issues but wanted it 'in the family'. I didn't want to deal with used car issues either, so I converted it, thus eliminating most of the issues I hate working on w/ cars (e.g. fuel pumps, oil seals, head gaskets, radiators, water pumps, etc, etc).

As an homage to my voltmeter wire, I'll leave this as a reminder to myself to not stop thinking.

Square 3820.1113

Ok, so I got back to the place I was earlier today and just posted this on a few EV lists trying to get some help as tonight, after I cleaned up my major mistake (I'm still reeling from that, so scary), I tried to troubleshoot again and found myself still unsure why things aren't working properly. So, here's another place I'm posting in case anyone has answers who might possibly stumble onto this posting.

So I literally only have to solve this problem and then I'll have my '73 squareback roadside instead of on jackstands. So, I am pleading for help here as I am totally stumped. I'll try to best explain this problem.

Essentially, I am able to run the motor when I connect a cable from the KSI terminal directly to the secondary contactor (battery side), skipping over both the 12V/30A relay and the KLK fuse (I'm following the EVA wiring diagram). I tried a new relay and new KLK fuse to eliminate those issues, as well as tested the ohm readings on the potbox and adjusted it (1-3 ohms disengaged and maxs out around 4800, and reads under 100 before it 'clicks on'). I've even tried to adjust the microswitch on the potbox, but I'm not sure I did it right and also it didn't seem to have any effects. Unfortunately, the motor doesn't engage when I have it wired up from KSI to relay (30), relay (87) to KLK fuse, KLK fuse to secondary contactor. I even tried connecting up the two input wires together (that usually go to 'Com' and 'No' on the potbox) to close the secondary contactor w/ the ignition switch instead of the pedal and that didn't effect performance.

In case it helps, here are a few general points. I have a 1221c Curtis controller on a 96V system w/ two Curtis SW220 contactors. I have test the 8" DC motor w/ a 12V battery and it spins the wheels. I have tested the voltage on the battery side of both contactors and register 96.8V as well as from B+ to B- on the controller when the potbox lever is engaged. I register 90% of this from the KSI (positive probe) and the negative side of the first battery (negative probe).

If I need to include more information for troubleshooting, I'll be happy to add it.

I need to find out more about microswitch adjustment on the potbox, but the Curtis manual unfortunately is not much help there.

My new prediction is that I'll either: sell this car, set it on fire, or watch it rust to nothingness while I continue to try to fix it. I've committed the ultimate newbie fallacy on this blog: predicted success rates and completion times when I don't even know what success and completion look like. I should have learned by now that it will be done when it is done, and I won't know when or how until well after that point looking backwards.

stopped thinking and livid

The microswitch on the potbox turned out not to be the problem as I bypassed the potbox (thus having the secondary contactor turn on w/ the ignition) and it still didn't work. So, back to the drawing board. I tried attaching the ksi to the secondary contactor via the line from the KLK to the secondary contactor, and didn't stop to think that the voltmeter cable was also in the connection (w/o the 2amp fuse, which is hard to find). I just fried my voltmeter cable by connecting it up wrong w/ the ksi to secondary contactor. Seeing smoke pour out after I turned on the ignition was not what I needed to see. I hesistated posting this, but hey, this is part of what happens when you get close to completion and stop thinking and backtracing connections to ensure safety, especially when bypassing. I'm so discouraged and embarrased, but it could have been much worse. I'm going to check all my input wiring now for melted insulation and this will hopefully solve my problem in the process, though doubtful...

Potbox Microswitch issue

I'm told (again by Bob at EVA) that the microswitch in my potbox needs adjusting as the ohm's being generated are greater than is acceptable for the high-pedal protection. This fine tuning is so hard to do when I don't know how hard to turn the screws. I could bypass this, connect the two positive wires together which are part of the ignition switch line and drive the vehicle, but I like the second contactor coming on w/ the pedal, not the ignition switch. Hopefully still today I'll be cruisin' down the street.

Not w/ a bang, but a whimper

Today was painfully ended by the darkness when I think I may actually be at the point that I can lower the car off the jackstands and drive it off this pad. It is a long (and probably boring) story of today's work, but I am hopeful that tomorrow will be the day...

Here's the short (or possibly medium) version. I thought I had a bad controller or that my motor-transmission connection was bad and thankfully, it was neither. I did the 12V battery test to the motor first thing this morning and was delighted to see the wheels turnover. Then, after some troubleshooting w/ Bob at EV America (who has been in this business at least 20 years was himself confused), he suggested to bypass the relay and the KLK fuse and go from the KSI terminal directly to the secondary contactor on the positive (battery) side. Did this w/ some spare jumper cables and viola, when I depressed the pedal the wheels turned over and I heard the high-pitched whirl I've read about.

So, this afternoon I worked all through trying to find out how to fix my input wiring issue. Thankfully, nothing in the 2/0 cable run is miswired. Everything checks out. To omit what is actually the long part to the explanation of this day's work, I think I had the negative side (going to the auxiliary battery, controller fan, and both contactors' negative spade terminals) miswired. This is what I am hoping is wrong, b/c everything else I've checked seems to be showing me that this is where the circuit from the potbox (when I depress the accelerator pedal) is incomplete and thus not sending the signal to the motor from the controller....

We'll see...

There, but....troubleshooting begins

Well, I finally have the cables cut, stripped, connectors crimped, connected, insulated, etc...Everything I can tell is now done, but when I press on the pedal, the motor doesn't turn over. I'm a bit perplexed and hope my motor isn't bad. I'm going to do some thinking tonight but I am hugely relieved to have the battery pack all hooked up and registering on my voltmeter at 96V+ (which is just what I thought via my testing on a few individual batteries). Now it is just figuring out if my controller is bad, my motor is bad, or if some of my more minor wiring is done wrong and impeding a full test. The one thing I'm worried about is that the transmission isn't engaging b/c the gearbox was misaligned w/ my ICE engine removal or that my mounting of motor was done incorrectly. The second doesn't seem to be anything too big to address as it is only four bolts to get the motor off. More later....

Almost there 2.0

This time around, as far as I can tell, I show be test driving the car this week. I just crimped and heat shrinked most of the 2/0 cable today and am only 3 cables shy of the 2/0 being fully done. I still have a few cuts and fuse insertions to do, as well as get the motor mounted and purchase a voltmeter and ammeter. Otherwise, I think that tomorrow I'll review things and possibly take the plunge and complete the circuit and push on the gas pedal...more postings tomorrow, I'm exhausted, but excited.

Finally!

Received the battery cables on Friday and am borrowing a hammer crimper from one of the MAEAA people tomorrow. So, I am hoping to get some time on the car tomorrow and Tuesday (weather permitting), so that I can test drive it...sometime this week??? We'll see.

I've still got to contact a welder to get a motor mount fashioned and to vent my batteries, but other than that, I am good to go on the technical side of things. Some cosmetic issues reside w/ the car, but that can wait. Pics will follow when I get my microSD card back in my phone. With all the labor I've been putting into our house, my car has sat alone for two weeks now (w/ one day of about 2 hours of labor). But this week my goal is to post a pic of it before/after the test run.

STILL waiting...

I have made no more progress than the last posting b/c I am STILL waiting on the 2/0 cables. I can't believe this, EVA should work on their stated importance of customer service.

Still waiting...

So I am finally back online (took a week to get our ISP to get us online) and I am two charger cables and the 2/0 cable (all around, 34+ lugs to crimp) away from the test run. I will post a pic of where I am now working, unfortunately quite exposed and now battling the bugs while I work (not to mention the midwestern humidity). We are working on our house now (porch renovation, kitchen wall removals, etc), so it is competing w/ my work time on this, but that is fine, as I'm still waiting to get my 2/0 cable via UPS (long, annoying story) and I have yet to find a place to rent a hex crimper from. Hopefully in a few weeks I'll take some time to post a long, rambling explanation of the vehicle and accompany it w/ some pictures. This car is a perfect EV candidate, w/ lots of options for wire runs, components placement, battery location, and a high gross vehicle rating (3500lbs and 2000+ rear axle max weight).

Motor secure

The motor needs a tail mount, it cannot be supported by the weight of the transaxles alone.

There, I needed to make sure to post that here as I was speculating on not having a motor mount. But, since the motor touched the ground after it was installed and the gear shifter was firmly stuck in place due to the weight on the transmission, it is obvious that I need to have support under the motor.

Nevertheless, I am highly excited to have it installed. The moving truck is loaded w/ the Squareback in tow. I'll take a pic tomorrow and send it from my phone.

So, a brief hiatus from work on this until we get moved into our new house and until I get my ordered battery cables (they screwed up my order AGAIN - this is the third time). I really appreciate the advice I get from my parts supplier (EVA), but maybe I should email my orders so there are more definite terms to the order that they can see in writing.

Input shaft cutback

Thankfully someone lent me a 7" Milwaukee grinder today and I very quickly removed the end of this 'input shaft' on the transmission. I was corrected that in the US this is its proper name while in Europe (and my service manual) it is called the drive shaft. I'm noticing some not so subtle snubbing of all things Non-(Auto)American...

This afternoon-evening I loaded our enormous moving truck (26') w/ most of our stuff and it is still about 1/2 empty. Tomorrow we'll finish up packing as we drive away on Thursday so we can close on our house Friday morning. After I finish packing tomorrow I will (hopefully) install the motor. I am going to have this bonus work day on the car b/c we got the truck a day earlier than expected. Hopefully my remaining battery cables will come at a reasonable hour, the motor will be installed in a timely manner, I will be able to Re-borrow the cable crimper and cutter, and wire up the battery pack...then drive this car tomorrow night. Doubtful, highly doubtful - but it is exciting to be this close to a test run.

Drive shaft cutback

I've been surprised that I haven't found more information online about how people cut back their drive shafts. After a call, I think I know why - it is simpler than I thought to cut hardened steel. I was just told by a machinist that an angle grinder w/ an 1/8" cutting blade on it would be sufficient to cut back an 3/4" diameter drive shaft. Since I've a friend giving me an angle grinder in 1 1/2 weeks (he got a 2 for 1 deal w/ a Makita grinder), I think I'll try that route.

Cleanup

An enjoyable site to see this car clean and hopefully soon it will be running. It took me a good two hours to get it this clean and here in a few pics you can see the difference. I guess 3 years of idleness and dirt builds up quite a bit.

This will be the last post for about a week, unless of course I get the drive shaft cut back in the next few days. I've packed up my tools and put the motor and other conversion stuff in backseat of the car. I did spray paint the front battery box today too (a bright orange) and drilling two 1" holes in the frame under the dash to run the 2/0 battery cables to/fro the front batteries (which are the final three in the series). I am running them through the old heater vents which go under the back seat and come out at the feet of the backseat passenger. Great option for me as this way I can go through an existing hole in the vehicle and avoided long external wire runs.

We'll have a car tow dolly for the move and I thought it would be a perfect time to take it by a machine shop to have that done. We'll see, I'm going to call around in the morning. Wednesday I get all but the charger from the parts supplier, so I'll be able to work when I'm able in KC.

Setbacks

So I have just gotten enough perspective on things to post an update. I just found out on Friday that first, the welder who agreed to fashion a motor mount didn't have time (for one reason or another). Understandable, but from Monday when he agreed to do it to Friday when I called to check up on things, I assumed he was working on it. Wish he would have called so I could arrange other things, but I think his issues were more than the usual excuses.

Alas, Wayne on the MAEEA list thankfully assured me that VWs of this type (note: not Type in the 'Type III' sense) don't need motor mount as the transaxles will support the weight of the transmission and DC motor. Thus, I am trusting his expertise as he has done multiple conversions of VWs and I have not done any....yet. So, while I wasted Friday morning running around to see if any metal fabricator could do this in the time I have left here (until Wednesday, since we move on Thursday), I was quite relieved to find out I can forgo a motor mount. I am still open to the extra support in the future (if I find it necessary for my needs), but I'm going to try it first without the rear tail mount (or, as called in Clymer's manual, the 'rear engine carrier').

Second, and much more frustrating (actually infuriating on Friday), my parts supplier (who will remain nameless) has now for a second time messed up my order and this is now the major reason why I am unable to finish the conversion before I move. I thought it ultimately would be my lack of experience and knowledge that would inhibit me finishing before we move. Thus, I have everything but my 2/0 cable, lugs, contactors, and my charger (which, as I was told the manufacturer hasn't finished producing it yet, is out of my suppliers hands). So, I am still a bit peeved about this, but this is providing me more time to do some incidental stuff. Well, all but one incidental thing - the cutting back of the drive shaft. Since I've no plasma saw, I don't have the tool to cut the end back off the drive shaft to the splines. So if anyone reading this has any suggestions, I am open to them. I will contact a few machnists around here and do some research though just to see if I can take care of this before we move.

Thankfully, I was able to use a 30-carbine blade on my circular saw to cut the 1/2" aluminum adapter plate, so that was a relief. I am just about done w/ the wiring of the not-battery-and-motor-related stuff (which I need 2/0 cable for - errrgh) and have found the instrumentation wires for the vehicle and properly hooked up the inertia wires so they work as they should (manufacturer instructions were for an ICE hookup and a bit confusing).

So, it looks like working on this in Kansas City is the only option. And since our house is a city lot plot, I've no real space like I have here (actually right now we've no garage space). Disappointing, but I think (read: hope) things will get going after we move in. Today and tomorrow I'm going to do some final assessments and figure out my stopping point until Early June (hopefully a week from tomorrow).

Getting nervous

I've a number of things left to do - install the motor and ensure it is supported properly, cut/crimp and hook up batteries cables to batteries, connect up contactors to system, hook up wires to auxiliary battery and dc-dc converter, and probably a few other things. I've done a lot of prep work, wiring up and thinking through safety considerations, but now I'm seeing a lot of the steps unfinished. Nothing big, and not sure how many, but the speed of this conversion has its up-sides - I haven't gotten bogged down and making everything perfect and have focused on driving this instead of infinite tinkering. But there are also down-sides - there are probably a few things I should have taken care of at the time and not said "I'll do this later, it will be no big deal to unhook all of this"...Such as: painting the underside of the car, installing springs on shocks, painting control board and battery boxes, cleaning, dealing w/ vehicle rust, etc. All this _can_ be done later, but probably would have been best to slow down and get things done at the time before all this complexity (and $) is in the vehicle. Nevertheless, I've four days left here before we move to Kansas City where I've no garage, not to mention much less time...The pressure is on!

Almost there...

Things are now looking much more organized than this today. This was taken at 1130pm last night by halogen light. Tomorrow I hopefully will get my final package with all the necessary parts to get this running.







Tonight I return for another late one to finish up some of the auxiliary wiring and clean up so that I can install the motor and cut/crimp the 2/0 cable for the batteries. Things are getting so complex it is hard to describe the wiring and planning.

10-14 gauge wiring almost done

Even though I started working at 4pm (and quit at about 11pm- helped w/ trim, quarter-round and base board installation at my brother-in-laws), I am close to being done w/ the small wiring stuff (meaning, everything but the 2/0 cable). I sent most of the wires going to the auxiliary battery (under the back seat, passenger side) and the dash (voltmeter and ammeter) via the former heater vents that came from the rear engine (about 8 wires in all - voltmeter and ammeter were to/fro wires). I have all the contactor wires ready for connection. I used an old gas line to run the wires through a metal part of the frame.

Tomorrow, I hope to finish and get a call from the welder about my motor mount. Friday, my final parts will show up and hopefully Saturday or Sunday, I'll have the motor installed. Then, Monday a ride???? Being a bit optimistic here, but it seems things are moving along well thus far towards the initial run...Maybe a bath for the car is in order once the motor is installed.

Deep into wiring diagrams: The phenomenology of power

I wish I had a picture of today that was more specific, but this is the site from a big picture perspective (since all this work is so minute and detailed, it is weird to see it from this distance). I installed all of the components, with the exception the contactors on my control board and wired up a number of things that I could do that were isolated to the board. I really have never done anything like this before - cut, strip, crimp wire, not to mention read and interpret wiring diagrams. To my rookie eyes, wiring diagrams are just laughable, they are so obtuse, even more so than Kant or Deleuze. But, once I was able to figure out the rules and structure of the diagram (staring at it basically), the relations between components via wiring started to become a bit more focused (emphasize 'started').

I found out that my final parts won't be here until Friday, so I'm going to wire up as much as possible this week with the hopes that I'll be able to install those parts and hook them straight up. It is the battery cables, the 2/0 cables (pronounced "two-ought" - again, I'm such a rookie here), that is now the worry on the horizon, not to mention cutting and drilling holes for the adapter plate.

Tomorrow I will be helping my brother-in-law trim out his house, a massive undertaking my in-laws are undertaking as a 40th birthday present to him. Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze in some wiring time as I want to locate the ignition switch and wire up the inertia switch up front, the auxiliary battery wires (found under the rear seat), and drill holes for the 2/0 cable going in/out of the battery boxes....we'll see.

Wiring prep complete

With the exception of the drivers seat, the wiring and control board preliminaries are complete. I bought most of the wire, splines, ties, etc. Fuel lines and misc parts are removed. Old wires are still there, but I'll remove those when I'm done wiring up the new stuff. Battery boxes are secure, built, and insulated - now I just have to drill holes for wires when the time comes. Tomorrow I will hopefully start to screw down the control board parts and begin wiring up what I can while I wait for the contactors and 2/0 cable. But, I did get a welder to agree to fashion up a 1/2" thick iron motor mount, so that's good news. Now I just need some sleep...

Batteries secure

Finally a picture of the front of the car, here w/ 3 batteries secured much as the rear ones (w/ metal strapping underlaid w/ rubber to keep the metal away from the plastic) and overlaid w/ 1/2" MDF box I fashioned to keep the batteries covered. I didn't hinge the lid- I'll just slide it off when the batteries need attention. This way the seal is tight and I can ventilate the hydrogen gas that is generated during charging in a much more controlled manner. Having the batteries centered still allows for a lot of front boot space on either side of the box that I can use to put groceries, school stuff, etc. If you look just left of the right headlight, that's where the spare used to go and where I'll use for additional luggage space. More than likely the charger will go up next to the box, but I've enough space for that too.

I also pretty much completed enclosing the rear batteries, played around w/ the potbox a bit since that needs to be close to the accelerator cable, worked w/ the layout of the controller, contactors, etc by closely studying Bob's wiring schematic he provides in the manual (that is, Bob from EV of America in Wolfeboro, NH). Tomorrow I plan to finish the box, paint control board, buy wiring, fasten down the control board, and begin to wire things up (probably after I try and determine what is excess wire and what isn't). Not to mention, I need to clean up my workspace. Things can get messy really quick when I get to improvising this setup, since I am planning/executing simultaneously. Not ideal, would probably be better if I determined things ahead of time, but turns out that things are coming together this way well so far. With the wiring I'm going to be more systematic in my planning before execution since I really have little clue about electrical work. But, good time to learn...

Rear Batteries secure

Today I got a late start due to a late night in Cincinnati. But, thankfully I figured out how to secure the rear batteries w/o taking up much space in the rear boot area and w/o too much cost. While I still am thinking I want to have frames welded on either side of the motor under the control board, for now this will work fine. I was on my way to looking around at auto parts stores for battery bolts (the 12" inch kind) and plates, when someone suggested visiting a tractor supply store. On my way I saw a few mini golf carts which had Escalade and Hummer bodies. Strange, but when I saw a sign that read "Electric Cars and Carts" on the windshield of one mini vehicle and saw they were actively displaying them in this small town called Gas City, IN, I had to stop. I spoke w/ the salesperson for the carts (based in Marion, IN) and he showed me the T-875 battery placement and how they fastened them to the carts. I was all set to go Monday morning to get the parts they sold for my battery pack, but for some reason on my way home I turned around and headed to the tractor supply place.

I found just what I ultimately was looking for. Again I want to weld the batteries to the frame, but want a less permanent and more maleable system for now so I can get this thing driving and then refine the layout later (I don't think I'll be one who just has this car all setup then ignore it for 10k miles). The picture above shows what one can find that can be cut w/ a reciprocating saw and drilled into for extra holes (or for enlarging one). I found both galvanized steel (which is what I'm using for the rear) and aluminum (which I'll use in front) L-shaped 'channel iron'. I also bough some of the long treaded 'bolt' shaft material for making long bolts since I could not find any 12" bolts that would fasten down a bracket set on top of the batteries. I basically ended up using strapping to secure the batteries to the steel frame that is bolted to the frame of the vehicle. With some bailer belt rubber cut to 1/2" strips, I put the rubber under the strapping to keep it from eating into the plastic in the batteries. Now, the 5 battery pack is snug against the back seat and thus will be easy to refill when necessary. Now I just need to fabricate a box that will slide over these batteries and provide a good seal so that I can control the ventilation. Here's what I have so far (picture is a bit dark since I just finished it at 930pm tonight):

Motor mount

This motor mount was found from another Squareback conversion site found here. Since I could not get the ICE motor mount off, I am going to ask a welder to fashion a similar one where the top curvature bolts onto the bottom one. This way I could not only easily set the motor on top to get it joined with the transmission, but allow some space in case I choose, in the future, to get a larger motor. Not to mention, that way I can shim w/ some rubber if I need to adjust the height a bit.

Ahead of schedule

So I chose to work tonight instead of tomorrow and made great progress on "step #1" (w/ regard to my previous post). It took less than one hour to change all four shocks to more heavy duty kinds, but a prior hour finding a lug wrench sturdy enough to get off the bolts. FYI- a Subaru Outback lug wrench fits VW lugs.

My front brakes are in much better shape than I thought and don't need changed and the wheel inspection can wait a bit until I am able to test out their soundness by driving the car. Now I am going in the morning to Batteries Expert in Anderson, IN to get 8 T-1275 Trojan Batteries (656lbs to be exact). Then, we are off to the yellow/blue store to look at kitchen cabinets since our new place needs a real kitchen (has few cabinets and countertop space). So the controller placement will have to wait until Saturday when I put in a full day/night of work.

Materials collection

Today was mostly a day of errands. I got supplies for the rear battery box where I may end up getting 5 batteries between the wheel wells in the rear just behind the passenger seat. I also picked up the motor at the local mechanic's shop here so that is great news (though it wasn't great news that I was double charged for shipping, but EVA is taking care of it). Not to mention, the controller, potbox, shunt, heat sink, relay, and dc-dc converter also came, so I'm going to play around w/ control board design here before everyone gets up. I need to sleep (in order to kick this jetlag too), but these next two weeks that I have dedicated to this project is making sleep difficult (just look at when I tend to post to this blog - it is not a late night post but early morning).

I'm now getting to the major portions here that are going to require some labor time and serious consideration so that won't help in the sleep dept:

1. Shocks replacement for a smoother ride (I'm waiting on spring adjustment as I am not taking on too much extra weight in the back considering I lost the ICE and now will have a 160lb motor and 5 12v batteries @ 410lbs)
2. Brakes replacement (front drum pads for now)
3. Wheel bearing greasing and general wheel assembly inspection/ maintenance

All of these I hope to complete on Friday.

4. Motor mount fashioning

The adapter plate and coupler is set to come in next Wednesday, so next Thursday or Friday I am trying to have set aside for motor installation. I want this to be done and installed before we move on the 29th or 30th. The other option is to take the ICE to Upland Tire for scrap (why allow someone else to pollute more w/ it?) and before they scrap it, get them to remove the existing motor mount. That may actually be the simplest solution, and best probably to use the existing mount to ensure the transmission rides at the traditional height instead of having a new one fashioned. Maybe I'll take one last stab at getting it off myself on Friday or Saturday if I have time.

4. Controller board placement and wiring

This is going to be the fun part b/c the structuralist in me enjoys these puzzles. In this process I will get rid of excess wiring which I've hesitated to do thus far as I don't want to eliminate anything essential.

5. Front and back battery box design and construction.

This is going to be the onerous part as I've no idea how to organize the batteries in a way that provides boot space for daily use, either in front or back. Most EV battery placement (the welded undermounted varieties being the exceptions) eats up boot space. Which is fine I'm sure b/c it is not like this is the vehicle for hauling building materials. But, in principle, I'm trying to keep things simple and aesthetically (and hopefully functionally) organized. But, maybe the best way will be this: put 5 batteries themselves in the back between the wheel wells (perpendicular to the axles), secure them to the vehicle body w/ 1/2" MDF underneath them also mounted to the body, then fashion a box that slides on top then attaches to the body or the box itself. In front I'm hoping to put two batteries in the spare tire portion and then one (maybe two for a 108V system?) in the main boot portion. Unfortunately, this step will probably happen in Kansas City.

Battery placement

After getting the tires changed on our xB, I bought shocks and front brakes w/ the kids (then we got some coffee cake and a bagel!). After defeat w/ the tire lugs being stuck (I bent two bars trying to loosen them), today I will attempt to torch the bolts to heat them up and loosen them. Today the rear heavy duty shocks should be in so I may pick those up at some time. Nevertheless, yesterday (5 1/2hrs) was productive as I was able to remove the gas tank and all associated fuel components, removed the rear carpet as well as some random junk around the car, fashioned a board to replace where the gas tank was (front boot), built the control board (shown here) and finally after a time of thinking have a design idea for the battery box. Not to mention, if you type in "Gav EV conversion" into utube you'll see more interesting ideas I am going to steal.

Today then I may take one last stab at getting the motor mount off the old engine, but it seems well attached and the bolts are buried under the crankshaft pulley which has a massive bolt I have no wrench for. So, I may just get Mike Montgomery here (the welder everyone reveres here) to fashion a mount. I also may have to pick up the motor and other parts in Ft. Wayne as I see the tracker says "Delivery complete". I also may include w/ my shock purchase a trip to the home store to get materials for the battery boxes. Seems to be coming along but I think I am in for a lot more complication once I start building the system and putting it together.

Bolt conquered

So the engine is out and the wheels are back on the ground. After less than an hour of labor I had it free. The bolt was the easy part once I jacked up the car some more and the frame was high enough that I could get to the bolt from above. Getting the engine free from the frame area and from under the vehicle w/o denting/scratching it was the tricky part. I then removed the clutch disk from the vehicle and mailed it to NH where the motor coupler and adapter will be machined for my vehicle. I gave a few dimensions of the drive shaft so that the fit will be snug. In a week then, hopefully I'll be able to install the motor. In the meantime, I'm going to get the controls and battery placement figured out, if not complete.

Shocks, cleaning, painting the underside would be nice, but I may skip that the painting for now as it would take a good deal of time to do so and seems like a lot of cleaning of rust and taping of rubber parts. I also tried to remove the front seats and couldn't get the seats off the runners nor find the wingnut to loosen the back cable (Clymer seems a bit spotty on pics and instructions for the '73). I want the interior to be free of impediments right now as I want to be able to consider wire runs and the existing electrical for tieing into it, but again, this might be the old cart before the horse.

Now that I have the rear cavity of the vehicle open w/ the transmission drive shaft exposed, I am able to move around the rear area quiet easily. Now is the time to consider battery and controls placement. After much consideration, I am (for now at least) skipping the most elegant solution: to have someone weld a frame around the motor area for 6 12v batteries, three on either side going parallel w/ the axle (T-1275 Trojans). For now, I'm going to place 5 or 6 batteries in the rear compartment in some fashion and then 2 or 3 up front, hopefully where the spare tire is/was. Which means I'll need to figure out a windshield washer fluid pump solution as the Squareback uses the pressure in the spare to force fluid onto the windshield (ingenious solution I'd say). Maybe a small bike innertube would work...

Then is the control board, but that will follow battery placement design given that the parts organization are more flexible. So, hopefully the motor, controller and some other essential parts are coming in the mail tomorrow. I am going to build some cardboard battery cutouts to help w/ layout and then start considering the materials for the battery box. Also, tomorrow (or actually today) I should change out the shocks, they definitely need it. The wheels too need to be lubed and checked over. To avoid another cart/horse swap, I should probably make sure this vehicle can move well before I worry about how to organize the components that will power it. So much to consider and think through, which is why after being woken up at 1245pm (went to bed at 845pm due to persistent jetlag) I couldn't sleep...

Possible heater solution

I've no idea if this is one of those crazy ideas that ends up setting your car on fire, but wow, ingenious solution for a problem I've yet to solve in my planning. How should I heat this car when I'll have no engine that is generating large amounts of heat? A hat and a coat - for me, that is. But, defrosting was another issue to consider that my hat/coat wouldn't solve. Here's a possible solution: a toaster heater: Instant heat, adjustable thermostat, simple wiring into the current heat sensor cable (plus a fuse for safety). May beat the hair dryer solution for a cheap fix as the ceramic heater idea is too expensive for me and my needs.

Returning to the bolt

After returning from a week long trip in Budapest, Hungary (presentation of research on violence), tomorrow or Monday I will be returning to The Bolt...

Here is a picture of the vehicle that I've been obsessively studying to think about design. I am considering visiting a welder around here to see if I can get two, three-battery supports under this opening which would then be welded to the vehicle itself. That way the control board could sit on this current engine cover area and the six rear batteries could be mounted outside the passenger compartment and low to the ground. Also, then I am planning on putting 2 batteries in the front trunk area where the spare tire is (not sure about clearance yet). I'm hoping that the control board will fit all major components in this area so with a cover over that board (which is latched on), I could then still use this back area for everyday stuff.

Here is another picture that shows 3 years of dirt and the decent condition of the body. I am running the extension cord out of the old fuel flap here and will keep the cord on a reel in this front trunk. That way I can just pull it out and then retract it when done (I will have the charger on-board). More pictures to follow as progress is made but hopefully this week all the prep work will get done which will include: painting the underside to stave off rust and make it easier to see wire runs, replace shocks, check wheels and brakes and replace if necessary, measure for battery and controls placement, clean, clean, clean....

I've never dropped a VW engine and all in all, the Clymer instructions were good (my ordered copies of Bentley's and Chilton's are on there way). I'm hoping I labeled the wires correctly but I'm assuming that I can backtrack the wire to insure its proper function.

I worked for about 4 hours yesterday and was moving along right on schedule, motivated (interpret: rushed) by another Squareback site that said s/he dropped the engine in 3 hours. About 1 hour into the work I made THE mistake and that was to not step back and think through the bell housing bolts and what are referred to as the 'upper front engine mount bolts'. The pics in Clymer are terrible so I tried to look at the engine as a whole to see how it was supported, but I should have been keyed in that I had just removed the 'lower engine mount bolts' and not conclude that the 'upper mount bracket bolts' were part of the engine. In short, the engine has one last bolt to go and it is the upper left bolt (if you are looking from back to front).

The weird part is that the nut was just laying on top of the engine, not attached, so I think that there is pressure on the bolt right now. I probably should reattached the motor mount to take off that pressure and hopefully it will loosen by hand. I had the engine jacked up way too high (about 3 inches probably) and now that I think of it, have probably oversupported the transmission.

Reacquaintance on Day One

It has been about 3 years since I've driven the Squareback and it has been sitting in an in-laws barn, thankfully w/ windows shut and doors closed. While dirty, and a few small rust spots, the years have been kind.

I started by sweeping the floor and purchasing a floor jack and two jack stands for dropping the engine, not to mention some disposable gloves that are 'chemically-resistant', a wire stripper/cutter/crimper, and an insulated handle screwdriver.

When I returned from shopping, I began the wire labeling process, drained the oil, drained the gas, and got to the point that I'm ready to drop the engine. I used a small ramp for raising cars and two 2x6's to support the transmission so that when I lower the engine it isn't harmed.

3 hours w/ a few interruptions and some confusion about what the wires stood for as the Clymer manual wasn't superspecific in instructions and diagram-pictures.

Tomorrow I hope to drop the engine and measure the necessary components for getting the adapter plate set and the motor hooked in.