Motor secure

The motor needs a tail mount, it cannot be supported by the weight of the transaxles alone.

There, I needed to make sure to post that here as I was speculating on not having a motor mount. But, since the motor touched the ground after it was installed and the gear shifter was firmly stuck in place due to the weight on the transmission, it is obvious that I need to have support under the motor.

Nevertheless, I am highly excited to have it installed. The moving truck is loaded w/ the Squareback in tow. I'll take a pic tomorrow and send it from my phone.

So, a brief hiatus from work on this until we get moved into our new house and until I get my ordered battery cables (they screwed up my order AGAIN - this is the third time). I really appreciate the advice I get from my parts supplier (EVA), but maybe I should email my orders so there are more definite terms to the order that they can see in writing.

Input shaft cutback

Thankfully someone lent me a 7" Milwaukee grinder today and I very quickly removed the end of this 'input shaft' on the transmission. I was corrected that in the US this is its proper name while in Europe (and my service manual) it is called the drive shaft. I'm noticing some not so subtle snubbing of all things Non-(Auto)American...

This afternoon-evening I loaded our enormous moving truck (26') w/ most of our stuff and it is still about 1/2 empty. Tomorrow we'll finish up packing as we drive away on Thursday so we can close on our house Friday morning. After I finish packing tomorrow I will (hopefully) install the motor. I am going to have this bonus work day on the car b/c we got the truck a day earlier than expected. Hopefully my remaining battery cables will come at a reasonable hour, the motor will be installed in a timely manner, I will be able to Re-borrow the cable crimper and cutter, and wire up the battery pack...then drive this car tomorrow night. Doubtful, highly doubtful - but it is exciting to be this close to a test run.

Drive shaft cutback

I've been surprised that I haven't found more information online about how people cut back their drive shafts. After a call, I think I know why - it is simpler than I thought to cut hardened steel. I was just told by a machinist that an angle grinder w/ an 1/8" cutting blade on it would be sufficient to cut back an 3/4" diameter drive shaft. Since I've a friend giving me an angle grinder in 1 1/2 weeks (he got a 2 for 1 deal w/ a Makita grinder), I think I'll try that route.

Cleanup

An enjoyable site to see this car clean and hopefully soon it will be running. It took me a good two hours to get it this clean and here in a few pics you can see the difference. I guess 3 years of idleness and dirt builds up quite a bit.

This will be the last post for about a week, unless of course I get the drive shaft cut back in the next few days. I've packed up my tools and put the motor and other conversion stuff in backseat of the car. I did spray paint the front battery box today too (a bright orange) and drilling two 1" holes in the frame under the dash to run the 2/0 battery cables to/fro the front batteries (which are the final three in the series). I am running them through the old heater vents which go under the back seat and come out at the feet of the backseat passenger. Great option for me as this way I can go through an existing hole in the vehicle and avoided long external wire runs.

We'll have a car tow dolly for the move and I thought it would be a perfect time to take it by a machine shop to have that done. We'll see, I'm going to call around in the morning. Wednesday I get all but the charger from the parts supplier, so I'll be able to work when I'm able in KC.

Setbacks

So I have just gotten enough perspective on things to post an update. I just found out on Friday that first, the welder who agreed to fashion a motor mount didn't have time (for one reason or another). Understandable, but from Monday when he agreed to do it to Friday when I called to check up on things, I assumed he was working on it. Wish he would have called so I could arrange other things, but I think his issues were more than the usual excuses.

Alas, Wayne on the MAEEA list thankfully assured me that VWs of this type (note: not Type in the 'Type III' sense) don't need motor mount as the transaxles will support the weight of the transmission and DC motor. Thus, I am trusting his expertise as he has done multiple conversions of VWs and I have not done any....yet. So, while I wasted Friday morning running around to see if any metal fabricator could do this in the time I have left here (until Wednesday, since we move on Thursday), I was quite relieved to find out I can forgo a motor mount. I am still open to the extra support in the future (if I find it necessary for my needs), but I'm going to try it first without the rear tail mount (or, as called in Clymer's manual, the 'rear engine carrier').

Second, and much more frustrating (actually infuriating on Friday), my parts supplier (who will remain nameless) has now for a second time messed up my order and this is now the major reason why I am unable to finish the conversion before I move. I thought it ultimately would be my lack of experience and knowledge that would inhibit me finishing before we move. Thus, I have everything but my 2/0 cable, lugs, contactors, and my charger (which, as I was told the manufacturer hasn't finished producing it yet, is out of my suppliers hands). So, I am still a bit peeved about this, but this is providing me more time to do some incidental stuff. Well, all but one incidental thing - the cutting back of the drive shaft. Since I've no plasma saw, I don't have the tool to cut the end back off the drive shaft to the splines. So if anyone reading this has any suggestions, I am open to them. I will contact a few machnists around here and do some research though just to see if I can take care of this before we move.

Thankfully, I was able to use a 30-carbine blade on my circular saw to cut the 1/2" aluminum adapter plate, so that was a relief. I am just about done w/ the wiring of the not-battery-and-motor-related stuff (which I need 2/0 cable for - errrgh) and have found the instrumentation wires for the vehicle and properly hooked up the inertia wires so they work as they should (manufacturer instructions were for an ICE hookup and a bit confusing).

So, it looks like working on this in Kansas City is the only option. And since our house is a city lot plot, I've no real space like I have here (actually right now we've no garage space). Disappointing, but I think (read: hope) things will get going after we move in. Today and tomorrow I'm going to do some final assessments and figure out my stopping point until Early June (hopefully a week from tomorrow).

Getting nervous

I've a number of things left to do - install the motor and ensure it is supported properly, cut/crimp and hook up batteries cables to batteries, connect up contactors to system, hook up wires to auxiliary battery and dc-dc converter, and probably a few other things. I've done a lot of prep work, wiring up and thinking through safety considerations, but now I'm seeing a lot of the steps unfinished. Nothing big, and not sure how many, but the speed of this conversion has its up-sides - I haven't gotten bogged down and making everything perfect and have focused on driving this instead of infinite tinkering. But there are also down-sides - there are probably a few things I should have taken care of at the time and not said "I'll do this later, it will be no big deal to unhook all of this"...Such as: painting the underside of the car, installing springs on shocks, painting control board and battery boxes, cleaning, dealing w/ vehicle rust, etc. All this _can_ be done later, but probably would have been best to slow down and get things done at the time before all this complexity (and $) is in the vehicle. Nevertheless, I've four days left here before we move to Kansas City where I've no garage, not to mention much less time...The pressure is on!

Almost there...

Things are now looking much more organized than this today. This was taken at 1130pm last night by halogen light. Tomorrow I hopefully will get my final package with all the necessary parts to get this running.







Tonight I return for another late one to finish up some of the auxiliary wiring and clean up so that I can install the motor and cut/crimp the 2/0 cable for the batteries. Things are getting so complex it is hard to describe the wiring and planning.

10-14 gauge wiring almost done

Even though I started working at 4pm (and quit at about 11pm- helped w/ trim, quarter-round and base board installation at my brother-in-laws), I am close to being done w/ the small wiring stuff (meaning, everything but the 2/0 cable). I sent most of the wires going to the auxiliary battery (under the back seat, passenger side) and the dash (voltmeter and ammeter) via the former heater vents that came from the rear engine (about 8 wires in all - voltmeter and ammeter were to/fro wires). I have all the contactor wires ready for connection. I used an old gas line to run the wires through a metal part of the frame.

Tomorrow, I hope to finish and get a call from the welder about my motor mount. Friday, my final parts will show up and hopefully Saturday or Sunday, I'll have the motor installed. Then, Monday a ride???? Being a bit optimistic here, but it seems things are moving along well thus far towards the initial run...Maybe a bath for the car is in order once the motor is installed.

Deep into wiring diagrams: The phenomenology of power

I wish I had a picture of today that was more specific, but this is the site from a big picture perspective (since all this work is so minute and detailed, it is weird to see it from this distance). I installed all of the components, with the exception the contactors on my control board and wired up a number of things that I could do that were isolated to the board. I really have never done anything like this before - cut, strip, crimp wire, not to mention read and interpret wiring diagrams. To my rookie eyes, wiring diagrams are just laughable, they are so obtuse, even more so than Kant or Deleuze. But, once I was able to figure out the rules and structure of the diagram (staring at it basically), the relations between components via wiring started to become a bit more focused (emphasize 'started').

I found out that my final parts won't be here until Friday, so I'm going to wire up as much as possible this week with the hopes that I'll be able to install those parts and hook them straight up. It is the battery cables, the 2/0 cables (pronounced "two-ought" - again, I'm such a rookie here), that is now the worry on the horizon, not to mention cutting and drilling holes for the adapter plate.

Tomorrow I will be helping my brother-in-law trim out his house, a massive undertaking my in-laws are undertaking as a 40th birthday present to him. Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze in some wiring time as I want to locate the ignition switch and wire up the inertia switch up front, the auxiliary battery wires (found under the rear seat), and drill holes for the 2/0 cable going in/out of the battery boxes....we'll see.

Wiring prep complete

With the exception of the drivers seat, the wiring and control board preliminaries are complete. I bought most of the wire, splines, ties, etc. Fuel lines and misc parts are removed. Old wires are still there, but I'll remove those when I'm done wiring up the new stuff. Battery boxes are secure, built, and insulated - now I just have to drill holes for wires when the time comes. Tomorrow I will hopefully start to screw down the control board parts and begin wiring up what I can while I wait for the contactors and 2/0 cable. But, I did get a welder to agree to fashion up a 1/2" thick iron motor mount, so that's good news. Now I just need some sleep...

Batteries secure

Finally a picture of the front of the car, here w/ 3 batteries secured much as the rear ones (w/ metal strapping underlaid w/ rubber to keep the metal away from the plastic) and overlaid w/ 1/2" MDF box I fashioned to keep the batteries covered. I didn't hinge the lid- I'll just slide it off when the batteries need attention. This way the seal is tight and I can ventilate the hydrogen gas that is generated during charging in a much more controlled manner. Having the batteries centered still allows for a lot of front boot space on either side of the box that I can use to put groceries, school stuff, etc. If you look just left of the right headlight, that's where the spare used to go and where I'll use for additional luggage space. More than likely the charger will go up next to the box, but I've enough space for that too.

I also pretty much completed enclosing the rear batteries, played around w/ the potbox a bit since that needs to be close to the accelerator cable, worked w/ the layout of the controller, contactors, etc by closely studying Bob's wiring schematic he provides in the manual (that is, Bob from EV of America in Wolfeboro, NH). Tomorrow I plan to finish the box, paint control board, buy wiring, fasten down the control board, and begin to wire things up (probably after I try and determine what is excess wire and what isn't). Not to mention, I need to clean up my workspace. Things can get messy really quick when I get to improvising this setup, since I am planning/executing simultaneously. Not ideal, would probably be better if I determined things ahead of time, but turns out that things are coming together this way well so far. With the wiring I'm going to be more systematic in my planning before execution since I really have little clue about electrical work. But, good time to learn...

Rear Batteries secure

Today I got a late start due to a late night in Cincinnati. But, thankfully I figured out how to secure the rear batteries w/o taking up much space in the rear boot area and w/o too much cost. While I still am thinking I want to have frames welded on either side of the motor under the control board, for now this will work fine. I was on my way to looking around at auto parts stores for battery bolts (the 12" inch kind) and plates, when someone suggested visiting a tractor supply store. On my way I saw a few mini golf carts which had Escalade and Hummer bodies. Strange, but when I saw a sign that read "Electric Cars and Carts" on the windshield of one mini vehicle and saw they were actively displaying them in this small town called Gas City, IN, I had to stop. I spoke w/ the salesperson for the carts (based in Marion, IN) and he showed me the T-875 battery placement and how they fastened them to the carts. I was all set to go Monday morning to get the parts they sold for my battery pack, but for some reason on my way home I turned around and headed to the tractor supply place.

I found just what I ultimately was looking for. Again I want to weld the batteries to the frame, but want a less permanent and more maleable system for now so I can get this thing driving and then refine the layout later (I don't think I'll be one who just has this car all setup then ignore it for 10k miles). The picture above shows what one can find that can be cut w/ a reciprocating saw and drilled into for extra holes (or for enlarging one). I found both galvanized steel (which is what I'm using for the rear) and aluminum (which I'll use in front) L-shaped 'channel iron'. I also bough some of the long treaded 'bolt' shaft material for making long bolts since I could not find any 12" bolts that would fasten down a bracket set on top of the batteries. I basically ended up using strapping to secure the batteries to the steel frame that is bolted to the frame of the vehicle. With some bailer belt rubber cut to 1/2" strips, I put the rubber under the strapping to keep it from eating into the plastic in the batteries. Now, the 5 battery pack is snug against the back seat and thus will be easy to refill when necessary. Now I just need to fabricate a box that will slide over these batteries and provide a good seal so that I can control the ventilation. Here's what I have so far (picture is a bit dark since I just finished it at 930pm tonight):

Motor mount

This motor mount was found from another Squareback conversion site found here. Since I could not get the ICE motor mount off, I am going to ask a welder to fashion a similar one where the top curvature bolts onto the bottom one. This way I could not only easily set the motor on top to get it joined with the transmission, but allow some space in case I choose, in the future, to get a larger motor. Not to mention, that way I can shim w/ some rubber if I need to adjust the height a bit.

Ahead of schedule

So I chose to work tonight instead of tomorrow and made great progress on "step #1" (w/ regard to my previous post). It took less than one hour to change all four shocks to more heavy duty kinds, but a prior hour finding a lug wrench sturdy enough to get off the bolts. FYI- a Subaru Outback lug wrench fits VW lugs.

My front brakes are in much better shape than I thought and don't need changed and the wheel inspection can wait a bit until I am able to test out their soundness by driving the car. Now I am going in the morning to Batteries Expert in Anderson, IN to get 8 T-1275 Trojan Batteries (656lbs to be exact). Then, we are off to the yellow/blue store to look at kitchen cabinets since our new place needs a real kitchen (has few cabinets and countertop space). So the controller placement will have to wait until Saturday when I put in a full day/night of work.

Materials collection

Today was mostly a day of errands. I got supplies for the rear battery box where I may end up getting 5 batteries between the wheel wells in the rear just behind the passenger seat. I also picked up the motor at the local mechanic's shop here so that is great news (though it wasn't great news that I was double charged for shipping, but EVA is taking care of it). Not to mention, the controller, potbox, shunt, heat sink, relay, and dc-dc converter also came, so I'm going to play around w/ control board design here before everyone gets up. I need to sleep (in order to kick this jetlag too), but these next two weeks that I have dedicated to this project is making sleep difficult (just look at when I tend to post to this blog - it is not a late night post but early morning).

I'm now getting to the major portions here that are going to require some labor time and serious consideration so that won't help in the sleep dept:

1. Shocks replacement for a smoother ride (I'm waiting on spring adjustment as I am not taking on too much extra weight in the back considering I lost the ICE and now will have a 160lb motor and 5 12v batteries @ 410lbs)
2. Brakes replacement (front drum pads for now)
3. Wheel bearing greasing and general wheel assembly inspection/ maintenance

All of these I hope to complete on Friday.

4. Motor mount fashioning

The adapter plate and coupler is set to come in next Wednesday, so next Thursday or Friday I am trying to have set aside for motor installation. I want this to be done and installed before we move on the 29th or 30th. The other option is to take the ICE to Upland Tire for scrap (why allow someone else to pollute more w/ it?) and before they scrap it, get them to remove the existing motor mount. That may actually be the simplest solution, and best probably to use the existing mount to ensure the transmission rides at the traditional height instead of having a new one fashioned. Maybe I'll take one last stab at getting it off myself on Friday or Saturday if I have time.

4. Controller board placement and wiring

This is going to be the fun part b/c the structuralist in me enjoys these puzzles. In this process I will get rid of excess wiring which I've hesitated to do thus far as I don't want to eliminate anything essential.

5. Front and back battery box design and construction.

This is going to be the onerous part as I've no idea how to organize the batteries in a way that provides boot space for daily use, either in front or back. Most EV battery placement (the welded undermounted varieties being the exceptions) eats up boot space. Which is fine I'm sure b/c it is not like this is the vehicle for hauling building materials. But, in principle, I'm trying to keep things simple and aesthetically (and hopefully functionally) organized. But, maybe the best way will be this: put 5 batteries themselves in the back between the wheel wells (perpendicular to the axles), secure them to the vehicle body w/ 1/2" MDF underneath them also mounted to the body, then fashion a box that slides on top then attaches to the body or the box itself. In front I'm hoping to put two batteries in the spare tire portion and then one (maybe two for a 108V system?) in the main boot portion. Unfortunately, this step will probably happen in Kansas City.