Batteries, Heat & Rust

So I'm now officially 3 years into my battery pack and it is showing signs of needing to be replaced (I think). I did run across this tidbit from EVamerica:

Battery Additive

Last month, we reported that Steve on Martha's Vineyard doubled the range of his 3-1/2 year old batteries by using an additive. The range increased from 10-13 miles to 23 miles per charge. Now, a month later his range increased to 40 miles. Steve says part of the increase is due to warmer weather. The cost was $80. The website was:
http://www.chinadepot.com/batripod.html

Note: EVA does not endorse or make any claims about the effectiveness of the above products. We simply share the experience of our customers.

As I am not inclined to believe you can put a magical potion into the cells and voilà, your battery life is extended for a few months/years, it is enticing to think I could spend $80 and not $1800. Anyone have any suggestions on what to do - recondition? replace? suck it up and go EV a la Flintstones?

On another note, I've got to repair a bit of rust on the undersides of the doors and repaint the whole car. The car floor is holding up great (a recurrent problem in the Northern climates with VWs) and again (like I said many times here) the car just keeps running without any real need for maintaining it. Someone once compared it to a ceiling fan and that is about right - how often do you have to replace that motor, maintain the electricals and think to yourself "is today the day when I flip the switch it won't come on"?

Hopefully in 3 more years I'll be still driving this obnoxiously orange wagon, only then I hope to use lithium batteries.....

Still going....

I'm now 2 years and 3 months into a battery pack some said wouldn't last a year and I haven't touch the electrical work since 2008. I do fill the tires with air, water the batteries (every three weeks, takes about 15 minutes) and plug it in overnight (for 6-9 hours). I take it (and two kids) every weekday to work & school (sept-may), 16-18 miles roundtrip, so that's about 5,000 miles (my odometer hasn't worked since I've had the car).

This car is so low maintenance (and so low stress because of that) at this point. Won't last another 2 years without new batteries ($1,300-$1,600), but that's what I might spend in gas and fuel anyhow in 4 years of driving a used car (if I'm lucky). It is slower on the road, lacks a/c and heat, and can only go 20-25 miles on a charge.

I've said most of this before, so given that I've nothing to report, should seem like a good thing in this case.

Battery inspection

Finally now finding time to work on my car before the Fall semester. We've been to Europe (4 weeks) and drove out to VT (2 1/2 weeks), so this summer so far has been a lot of time (well-spent) traveling.

Today I pulled out my front 3-pack (of 8-total, 12V Trojans), cleaned them w/ a baking soda & water solution, cleaned out the boot area, laid down a rubber mat, leveled and re-situated them in the boot. A good deal of battery acid was found between two and in front of them, hence I'm trying the rubber mat (actually, it is the remnants of a blow-up mattress from a Pooh bed..I know, so lame, but didn't want to spend any $$). We'll see how acid-resistant it is.

Also, filled all my batteries w/ water and almost used 3 quarts. They were quite low, though thankfully no plates were showing. Put another charge to 'em, so I'm going out soon to check on the state of things.

Now it is time to give the car a workout so I can be sure that the batteries are ready for another winter. This one was a bit hard on them, but I think that they'll last from what I'm reading. They are still holding about 103.7-103.9 (and that is the reading a few hours after a charge). That's 2.16 per cell, which is good. I'm hoping that the sluggishness I'm feeling is from lack of use and that w/ exercise, the range and performance will extend.

I will be taking Eva to Academie Lafayette most mornings, so it is now going to be tested w/ a little extra weight (42-45lbs, depending on her backpack). Will be fun to ride w/ someone for a change, esp. her, as she always asks if we are taking 'the orange car'.

Control Board

Finally I thought to take this picture of the control board. The controller has aluminum foil taped to it (w/ aluminum duct tape) to defract sunlight and keep it cooler (worked this summer in 100F plus heat and direct sunlight). The SB-350 Andersen disconnects for the red and black 2/0 cable is just one disconnect cut in half lengthwise. Finally, the small Andersen disconnect is for the charger, which is up front. Otherwise, everything should be quite evident if you've looked at EV control boards before.

Living in the past

Technology has a shelf-life and this car has long since been at home. The speed, responsiveness, bulk, and bloat that today's cars tend to have make me feel as if I shouldn't be driving this thing around. All around me people are cruising at speeds while multitasking and consuming unimagined power for unimagined devices when this was a new car. So, I often think that the reason I tend to get uptight about slowing people down when going uphill is that this machine lives in a world where the rules and norms are fundamentally different. Which gives me pause b/c I can now better appreciate David Lynch's film "A Straight Story".

Reduced Power

The cold that is settling in here in KC seems to be effecting my range and power. I read about this, but thought it would be a bit later into the cold season that I'd notice a change. I usually find I am at about 50% depth of discharge after my daily commute, but as of now it looks like I'm closer to 70 or 80% discharge (and the suggestion is not to go above 80% DOD much at all). Well, may be time for battery heater wraps or another battery or two. Then again, I could take the bus 1 1/4 hours w/ a transfer and a 15 minute walk for a 9-mile commute...

So, this weekend I'm going to do some additional research to see if I may be having issues with the pack. So far my individual readings show a strong degree of equalization across the pack over time. So, not sure here....suggestions?

Turnaround

This weekend we had a block sale where many of us tried to sell our stuff (in some cases successfully). I had my car set out w/ a 'For Sale: Electric VW' sign on it. It generated a lot of questions and two people who took down my number. One of them was uber-excited thinking her son would for sure be interested.

But, I think I am done w/ having it on the market. I think I'm going to keep it. Lots of reasons I won't go into here, but let's just say it is reliable and my concerns about the winter are dwindling. I can always bum a ride or something on those absolutely undrivable days (rare I'm told in this city).

I didn't get around to the bike conversion yet, but there is yet another mode of transport I'm going to be considering that was one of my pre-EV conversion options towards the top of the list: a Vespa or some other low budget 125-150cc scooter. Maybe I should trade off the car and scooter for commuting and get even more life out of the Squareback.

For those of you who don't personally know me, I'm told this is a habit of mine (infinitely exploring options and seeking more ways to make life more complicated). To me it seems a bit complicated to consider many transport options (b/c you increase your overall maintenance needs and 'kipple' factor - see PKD for clarification), but on most days it seems to me that this is the best approach: take the long view, decentralize your technological commitments, and consider what is essential for that task. I rarely _need_ a motor-powered 4 wheel enclosed shell but do want to avoid being totally sweaty when I show up to teach.

Possible buyer?

This weekend someone is actually coming to look at the car for purchase (in this economy???). I am getting cold feet b/c now I'm growing a bit attached to the car and the ease of use/maintenance. Now that the weather is turning cold here, a few mornings I've had some fog/haziness on the windshield and w/ no heat source, it may be time to install something to be able to see well while I'm driving. I'm going to do some investigation on the toaster coil idea under the dash fan. For $10, I could have enough heat instantly generated for quick defrosting. Plus, I need to re-install insulation around the batteries to keep them from getting too cold overnight. I hear they generate enough of their own heat soon into driving, but coldness reduces initial performance power.


On another note (non-EV project idea), I am toying with the idea of converting my standard mountain bike (21-speed) to a single speed (w/ ultimate goal of purchasing a fixed-gear hub). This minimalist ride appeals to my aesthetic sense and low-maintenance approach. While the hills might make this a challenge, I hear it is a great workout (which I need). Notice the lack of wires, jangling components, etc...We'll see if this pans out, but I am realizing that I should stick by my initial thoughts that my 'commuter car' is just that - for my essential transportation needs. I want to mix things up and this new conversion is a way to insure I am not too reliant on non-human powered transport.

Drivingabout

Not much to report these days but that I put this up for sale on craigslist and EV trading post. Not exactly sure why. Part of me wonders how the winters will be here (ice and all), how long the batteries will last, etc. Mostly uncertainty but it is actually a good thing to have little to report.

It gets me to/from work just fine. The lead-acid batteries are easy to maintain, just a little watering every two weeks or so (takes about 10 minutes for 8 batteries). I plug in right away when I get home but don't start the charge until 11pm. I wired up the outside outlet I plug into to a switch in our kitchen. This way, right when I wake up (around 630am), I can just turn off the switch and the charging stops. It is handy and I bet this winter I'll be glad for it.

One note of caution: I do this partly b/c I haven't installed the vent fans for the battery box yet in the rear (I have no box around the front batteries and have noticed no effects). I figure (uh-oh) that it takes me about 1/2 hr to get to the car and that any leftover hydrogen will have dissipated. This may be a _stupid_ move on my part, but I'm seeing people all over saying that they aren't too chronic about the venting (though they are careful not to overseal the batterypack and are sure to leave the doors open a minute or so before the start driving). So, maybe my approach isn't a good one, but I have yet to figure out how to route the hydrogen/air out of the rear of the vehicle...Suggestions?

I have not gotten pics of the dash yet posted here (as I'm between cell plans so w/o a easily accessible camera), but the ammeter and voltmeters, as they are analog, are running fine. Next time I will get a digital voltmeter. The analog ammeter suits my needs fine as it is something I refer to in hill-climbing and starting from a stop (I try to avoid pegging it to 400amps but keep it around 300-350 while under a harder-than-usual load). The voltmeter though is barely useful as the analog type doesn't get the specificity I need for trouble shooting. When I use my multi-meter (that reads to the hundreth decimal place), I notice the voltmeter is around 2v off.

Otherwise, I finished the underside cover so the motor and controller are rainproof. A huge relief.

Controller heat maintained

I found the simplest solution to ensure that the sun does not overly warm up my controller. I covered the controller with aluminum foil and secured it to the controller with aluminum tape (the more expensive kind, not the 'duct' kind). It is working really well at reducing the heat of the controller and I think it is keeping the controller from getting hot due to direct sunlight. So, for the last two weeks, my runs have been unhampered by the issue I was having previously.

I have just posted this vehicle for sale too as I think that I am in the market for a vehicle that is much smaller to fit my own needs. I really dig this car, but think someone who is hauling multiple people might get more use out of it. A scooter is probably sufficient for me! So, you can find the craigslist posting here

Motor rain protection

I have been trying to figure out how to keep water from damaging or shorting my wires and motor in the rear part of the vehicle. Since I have cables running from the front to the back that are only a 1/2 ft from the wheels, I figured they need to be protected somehow. Plus, you never want water splashing into the openings on the motor.

While sheet metal and aluminum are probably the best long term solutions, again, I needed something now that would work now for my commuting. So, rain protection 1.0 is made from the plastic sheets you find at the hardware or garden stores to stand up a large plastic bag to fill w/ leaves or landscape waste. It is around 2 1/2ft x 5 ft and was perfect for totally enclosing the motor, control board, external wire runs, etc. I still need to cover one small spot (which I should do soon b/c if any well-placed water jumps up in there....arrrgh!), but w/ a few well-placed screws and some electrical ties to fasten it around the motor mount (see previous posting for design of motor mount), it is quite secure. Not to mention, this may be more longterm than short as the plastic will hopefully stand up to moisture better and contorted more easily to the funky design of the engine compartment.

Update on progress

I start teaching this Wednesday, so I am making some final adjustments and additions so that my Squareback is ready for constant use. I have been putting a good amount of miles on it in the past month and w/ all the hills here in Kansas City (never thought there would be before I moved here), the biggest issue I have to pay attention to is the temperature of the controller. I can't let it sit out in the sun and really need a second fan to cool it. But, I put a reflective sheet over it when not driving and find that is sufficient. I really notice a loss in power when I start out with it warm from sunlight. Which makes me wonder why they didn't build these as white instead of black.

I installed my ammeter in its permanent place tonight - where the analog clock used to be. After I get the voltmeter installed (where the fuel gauge is), I'll take a pic of the finished dash, along w/ a picture of my other final additions - a rain guard for the control board and motor. This has been the biggest headache as I've no idea what to use that can be installed in a non-standard environment. There are lots of curves and angles, so my attempts at using metal have just been frustrating. I'm also going to paint the wheels a metallic color due to some rust on them and I'll do some bodywork touch-up w/ VW paint.

I took out the spare, jack, and other random stuff today (around 40lbs total I think) as a way to lighten the vehicle, and I'm considering taking out a seat or even the backseat. Not sure I want to, but it might help my range. I'm also going to keep closer data now that I'll be driving more often, so I'll post that when I get some more refined numbers. Right now, it looks like I discharge about 50% when I go 16-18 miles to/from work. I average about 35 mph and run around 250amps. The amperage is relative as I coast a lot going to work and climb back uphill more often coming back.

Improved performance

Yesterday I inverted my Potbox (the little device that controls acceleration from the 'gas' pedal) and immediately noticed I was able to get more out of my EV. The cable now travels in a straight line to the Potbox and my hill climbing is much better. Even better too is that I now have an ammeter to gauge how much I'm asking from the controller and motor, so I can see which gear draws higher amps and thus can down/up shift to save on the power I'm drawing. It would be nice to know the motor rpms (so I could know when in fact I should shift to avoid redlining it) as hill climbing - like a gas vehicle- is better in a lower gear.

The lamentations I expressed a few days ago are less, though I still think an extra battery would help things out. Simply (but pricey) solution...

Homemade A/C system

Saw this at a local EV meeting (MAEAA) and while I'm not too concerned right now about sweating like crazy as I drive in this heat, when I'm teaching I don't really dig pit-sweat...Great instructables on it here

Good range so far, but controller overheating

So I had my first drive today to/from my new workplace. Thankfully the trip (w/ a small 2-mile side trip for lunch) only took me down to just below 50% DOD (that's depth of discharge). After some research the past few days, it seems the following things are good for your batteries:

1. It is best to charge around the 50% point, even though one can safely discharge down to 80%.
2. One should avoid opportunity charging (charging whenever you stop) as that will 'cycle' the batteries too often and lead to a shorter battery pack lifespan.
3. One should charge just after driving to avoid sulfation on the battery plates. Not really sure what that means other than the lead plates loosing the power to transfer energy due to build up of material (sulfur) on their surface.
4. Disconnect the pack after charging to de-energize it (this I need to read more on, but it makes some logical sense - the energy is not lost in heat or doesn't flow through the whole pack but becomes isolated and stored w/in each battery).

So, since my roundtrip commute is about 17 miles, my test today shows that if I gain some range here after a few more charges, I'll have guessed right that my pack is good for my range purposes - commuting to/from work while still being able to make small trips to the store, library, etc. Then, I'll charge in the afternoon/evening.

With performance though, it is another, and more depressing, story. I think my pack may be too small for the hills on Wornall road past 75th as my controller almost burned out on the way home. I think the main issue was that my controller was in the afternoon sun today (which it was above 90F today w/o any clouds) and so on the way home I again heard the 'going thermal' high pitched whine as I climbed a few hills. Also, I may have had a lurch happen in the vehicle at one point, but I'm not sure as I was taking my foot off the pedal everytime I heard the whine and coasting a lot when I could.

Not to mention, I'm spending too much time floored to get up hills as the pack get below 20%-30% DOD. Going to work it is ok, a bit hard up steep hills, esp if I hit any red lights and have to start up from a stop going uphill, but overall I had a fine ride going there. Coming home was a different story.

I'm going to try a light, breathable cover to go over the control board so as to avoid afternoon sun. I thought about a curtain, but...that's way overdetermined - an orange VW w/ curtains!?

I'm leaning towards getting another T1275 to make this a 108V system, so as to increase my power and decrease the amps I draw when climbing hills. Hopefully that may address stressing the controller, but I'm not sure, I'll need to look into it.

Driving only w/ gauges would help a lot. They should be here tomorrow or Friday. What I've been doing is constantly checking the pack w/ my multi-meter before/after every drive, as the voltage climbs a few hours after a drive and is much lower just after you stop driving. Also, I've been shifting a lot to insure I'm not going to burn out the motor or overstress the controller - but of course, the latter seems to be happening. 1st gear up to 15mph, 2nd up to 30mph, 3rd up to 40mph, 4th no more than 50mph. What I need to read up on is what gear to be in when climbing between 25-30mph.

The short of it is this: this car may be a bit heavy for a 96V system on a Curtis 1221C controller and an 8" Advanced DC motor. Probably I should have spent more $$ and gone w/ 120V pack, 1231C Controller, and a 9" motor. But, I didn't. So, I need to shed some weight, drive more strategically and conservatively, keep the car components cool by installing another fan on the controller, and making sure it stays out of the hot sun.